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The Beginning of the End

I’ve been in Ethiopia for almost two weeks now. It’s been a delicious downtime from constant traveling up to this point – a chance to stop thinking about Cairo, about endings, about the fact that nothing lasts forever. But this morning it will be time to move on. To...

Lorry Nights

It’s dark. We left Marsabit an hour ago, by which time night had long fallen, but as I clamber down into the lorry’s cargo hold, the darkness becomes a dense, clinging oil. Occasionally pierced by small torches as the dozen or so others in the small space...

Nairobi to Isiolo – Frontier Country.

Taken straight out of my journal notes. Disclaimer for poor grammar,etc :) At the matatu station, I am relieved to find that there are still matatus departing for Isiolo via Nanyuki, despite Nairobi’s ungodly rush hour traffic thoroughly interfering with any...

Chasing Unicorns. The Sudanese Visa.

Taken straight out of my journal notes. Disclaimer for poor grammar,etc It’s moving day again today. Somehow another three mosquitos managed to get into my mosquito net and haunt my dreams. I wonder sometimes if it’s not called a mosquito net because it...

The dragon of the still evenings

“She caresses me on the quiet nights. Her name is restlessness, and she snuggles warm against my soul.” I have always been a night owl – one of those people for whom midnight is the earliest time that I will consider going to bed. The effects of this...